planos para mesa de enrutador para madera
In more than 20 years as a professional woodworker, I have built dozens of
router tables for all sorts of uses. What has always escaped me is finding a fullfeatured design that is as capable on the jobsite as it is in the shop. Back in
2012, I worked up a design that has worked well for six years. As happy as I
have been with this design, long use has given me a list of improvements I want
to make. I decided that the first two episodes of Woodcademy Season 2 is a
great time to introduce an updated version.
To be useful, this system has to have a full-size top, be able to handle twohorsepower routers, fold up for easy storage and transport, be easy to move, and
do all this without expensive or exotic materials and hardware.
This design meets all those criteria well; the top is 30” wide by 20” deep, the
frame is built from standard home center 2x8 lumber, the hardware is unusual
but not too difficult to acquire, folding down or setting up takes about a minute
and when folded takes has about a 12” by 30” foot print. To top it off, it can be
easily moved on its 6” wheels.
Before we get on to the actual build, here are a few notes:
Be picky when selecting your lumber. You can get all the parts out of two
2x8x8s, but not if they are warped, twisted or have large knots.
I have included instructions for making your own table top, but buying a
premade top is perfectly acceptable (see “Sources”).
This plan includes instructions for building your own aluminum bodied
fence system, but again, you can easily use a store bought fence as well
(see “Sources”).
I use a router lift for my table, and recommend installing one since the top
does not flip up. You can use whatever lift or insert plate you wish, but the
Router Lift FX from Rockler that I use secures to the top so it won’t fall out
when folded or during transport.
On to the build!
The Folding Stand
All the parts for the stand can be cut from two 2x8x8s.
You will want to pick through the
lumber stack a bit and make
sure that you choose straight,
knot free and undamaged
boards. There is room to lay out
the parts with some extra. Cross
cut them a bit long with a circular
saw.
The parts are then taken to the
table saw to be cross cut to final length. Most of the parts are cut directly from the
2x8 stock, but the Top Cleats can be ripped from a single section of stock. Strike
a line along the center of the piece and lay out the two cleats off this line.
On the cleats and the feet, lay out the
shape of the parts as shown in the
measured drawings, and mark the
center lines for the pivot holes. The
cleats get a hole for a handle, and the
feet get an axle hole and a mortise laid
out for a stretcher. (See measured
drawings) Do not bother marking the
pivot holes, we will use a jig to ensure
accuracy.
All the parts for the stand can be cut from two 2x8x8s.
You will want to pick through the
lumber stack a bit and make
sure that you choose straight,
knot free and undamaged
boards. There is room to lay out
the parts with some extra. Cross
cut them a bit long with a circular
saw.
The parts are then taken to the
table saw to be cross cut to final length. Most of the parts are cut directly from the
2x8 stock, but the Top Cleats can be ripped from a single section of stock. Strike
a line along the center of the piece and lay out the two cleats off this line.
On the cleats and the feet, lay out the
shape of the parts as shown in the
measured drawings, and mark the
center lines for the pivot holes. The
cleats get a hole for a handle, and the
feet get an axle hole and a mortise laid
out for a stretcher. (See measured
drawings) Do not bother marking the
pivot holes, we will use a jig to ensure
accuracy.
Lay out the two feet
according to the
measured drawings.
Mark out the shape and
the axle location.
The feet will be joined
by a stretcher, so the
mortise is laid out as
well. Be sure that the
two feet are mirror
images.
The measured drawings show a centerline mark for the pivot holes on the feet
and cleats. Mark this line on all four parts before cutting them out.
At the table saw, rip the center line
of the board to separate the cleats,
and then rip both to 3” wide. The
feet and cleats can now be cut out
on the bandsaw.
The parts are sanded to the lines
using the appropriate sanding tools
to finish shaping the feet and
cleats.
The parts should be as close to the same size and shape as possible, but minor
differences will make no difference as long as the holes line up.
according to the
measured drawings.
Mark out the shape and
the axle location.
The feet will be joined
by a stretcher, so the
mortise is laid out as
well. Be sure that the
two feet are mirror
images.
The measured drawings show a centerline mark for the pivot holes on the feet
and cleats. Mark this line on all four parts before cutting them out.
At the table saw, rip the center line
of the board to separate the cleats,
and then rip both to 3” wide. The
feet and cleats can now be cut out
on the bandsaw.
The parts are sanded to the lines
using the appropriate sanding tools
to finish shaping the feet and
cleats.
The parts should be as close to the same size and shape as possible, but minor
differences will make no difference as long as the holes line up.
Pivot Holes
In my original design, I bored
5/16” holes for the pivots all
the way through both parts of
the joint, and used a nylon
shoulder washer to fit the 1/4”
bolt to the hole. This worked
okay, but did allow more play
in the system unless the bolts
were very tight. The shoulder
washers simply were not solid
enough to prevent some
movement.
So, I redesigned the joint. I bored
a 1/2” hole most of the way
through, stopping 1/2” from the
inside face of the upright. I
completed the hole with a 5/16”
bit. 1/2” diameter plastic spacers
with a 1/4” center hole fill the
space to hold the 1/4-20 bolts,
and the 5/16” hole accepts the tnut. This system removes virtually
all play between the parts without
needing to over-tighten the bolts.
This does require greater accuracy when drilling all the holes, but the marking jig
we will make helps immensely.
5/16” holes for the pivots all
the way through both parts of
the joint, and used a nylon
shoulder washer to fit the 1/4”
bolt to the hole. This worked
okay, but did allow more play
in the system unless the bolts
were very tight. The shoulder
washers simply were not solid
enough to prevent some
movement.
So, I redesigned the joint. I bored
a 1/2” hole most of the way
through, stopping 1/2” from the
inside face of the upright. I
completed the hole with a 5/16”
bit. 1/2” diameter plastic spacers
with a 1/4” center hole fill the
space to hold the 1/4-20 bolts,
and the 5/16” hole accepts the tnut. This system removes virtually
all play between the parts without
needing to over-tighten the bolts.
This does require greater accuracy when drilling all the holes, but the marking jig
we will make helps immensely.
The hardware needed for the pivot and locking system is not exotic, but you may
not be able to source everything locally. I give you sources for everything toward
the end of these plans. The pivots are simply 1/4-20 allen head cap screws, 3”
long, but for ease of use, you want clamping knobs for the locking bolts. Knobs
with a 3” long stud will be very hard to find and very expensive. Fortunately, I
found plastic thumb screw heads that can be pressed on to the same bolts to
form a clamping knob. These heads allow you to make knobs from any length
allen head bolt.
To build the stand you will
need:
Four press-on thumb
screw caps
Eight 1/4-20 X 3” allen
head cap screws
Eight 1/4” washers
Sixteen 3/4” long
plastic spacers
Eight 1” long plastic
spacers
Eight 1/4-20 t-nuts with
1/2” long barrels
The 3/4” spacers are doubled up because it is hard to find 1-1/2” long spacers
and they are more expensive than using two 3/4” ones.
The press-on thumb screws are attached to the bolts by pressing them on. This
requires some force and actually deforms the plastic on the inside, locking them
onto the bolt pretty much permanently. You can hammer them in place, but you
risk breaking them. The safest method is to set the cap in place, and squeeze
them together in a vise. Once you see how well these press on knobs work, you
will want to keep some on hand all the time.
not be able to source everything locally. I give you sources for everything toward
the end of these plans. The pivots are simply 1/4-20 allen head cap screws, 3”
long, but for ease of use, you want clamping knobs for the locking bolts. Knobs
with a 3” long stud will be very hard to find and very expensive. Fortunately, I
found plastic thumb screw heads that can be pressed on to the same bolts to
form a clamping knob. These heads allow you to make knobs from any length
allen head bolt.
To build the stand you will
need:
Four press-on thumb
screw caps
Eight 1/4-20 X 3” allen
head cap screws
Eight 1/4” washers
Sixteen 3/4” long
plastic spacers
Eight 1” long plastic
spacers
Eight 1/4-20 t-nuts with
1/2” long barrels
The 3/4” spacers are doubled up because it is hard to find 1-1/2” long spacers
and they are more expensive than using two 3/4” ones.
The press-on thumb screws are attached to the bolts by pressing them on. This
requires some force and actually deforms the plastic on the inside, locking them
onto the bolt pretty much permanently. You can hammer them in place, but you
risk breaking them. The safest method is to set the cap in place, and squeeze
them together in a vise. Once you see how well these press on knobs work, you
will want to keep some on hand all the time.
It is vital that the pivot and locking
holes line up perfectly between
mating parts. A marking jig is the
best method for ensuring this.
The jig is a simple piece of good
quality 1/2” plywood, 7” long and
2” wide. Mark it along the center
line and again 2-5/8” to each side
of that line.
The two sidelines get cross marked 1” down from the top. These are the hole
centers. Also, mark out a small “V” notch on both ends of the center line as
shown in the measured drawings.
The two hole locations are
drilled through with a 1/4” bit,
and the notches cut out on
the band saw. The jig is
completed by attaching a 7”
by 1” cleat of 1/2” ply to the
top edge.
The marking gauge is used by setting the cleat against the edge of the part and
aligning the hole center line so it aligns with the jig line as seen inside the
notches and clamped into place.
holes line up perfectly between
mating parts. A marking jig is the
best method for ensuring this.
The jig is a simple piece of good
quality 1/2” plywood, 7” long and
2” wide. Mark it along the center
line and again 2-5/8” to each side
of that line.
The two sidelines get cross marked 1” down from the top. These are the hole
centers. Also, mark out a small “V” notch on both ends of the center line as
shown in the measured drawings.
The two hole locations are
drilled through with a 1/4” bit,
and the notches cut out on
the band saw. The jig is
completed by attaching a 7”
by 1” cleat of 1/2” ply to the
top edge.
The marking gauge is used by setting the cleat against the edge of the part and
aligning the hole center line so it aligns with the jig line as seen inside the
notches and clamped into place.
A 1/4” transfer punch is passed
through the jig holes and tapped
with a hammer to mark the hole
locations with a dimple that will
guide the drill bit. Transfer
punches are designed to fit
through a specific sized hole and
create a sharp mark at the exact
center. The cleats and feet can
now be drilled through for the
spacers.
All hole locations on the parts are
set 1” off an edge, so a fence is set
on the drill press 1” from the bit
center. The pivot holes on the
cleats and feet are drilled through
using a 1/2” diameter forstner bit.
The 1/2” diameter axle hole on the
feet can be drilled as well while
you are set up.
through the jig holes and tapped
with a hammer to mark the hole
locations with a dimple that will
guide the drill bit. Transfer
punches are designed to fit
through a specific sized hole and
create a sharp mark at the exact
center. The cleats and feet can
now be drilled through for the
spacers.
All hole locations on the parts are
set 1” off an edge, so a fence is set
on the drill press 1” from the bit
center. The pivot holes on the
cleats and feet are drilled through
using a 1/2” diameter forstner bit.
The 1/2” diameter axle hole on the
feet can be drilled as well while
you are set up.
The uprights can be laid out and drilled next. Start by marking out the mortises as
shown in the measured drawings. The pivot holes will be centered on each end
of each upright, but mark these on the opposite side from the mortise and mark
the upright using the drill gauge and transfer punch.
The pivot holes through the uprights
are only drilled 1” deep with the 1/2”
bit. Once all these 1/2” holes are
drilled, a 5/16” bit is used to bore the
rest of the way through for the t-nut.
The forstner bit leaves a point at the
hole bottom to center the 5/16” bit.
This is all done referencing off the 1”
fence still set on the drill press.
Before moving the fence for the next step, use a 1” diameter bit to drill the handle
bar socket into the cleats as shown on the measured drawings. Bore these 3/4”
deep, being careful to create a left and right cleat as you do.
shown in the measured drawings. The pivot holes will be centered on each end
of each upright, but mark these on the opposite side from the mortise and mark
the upright using the drill gauge and transfer punch.
The pivot holes through the uprights
are only drilled 1” deep with the 1/2”
bit. Once all these 1/2” holes are
drilled, a 5/16” bit is used to bore the
rest of the way through for the t-nut.
The forstner bit leaves a point at the
hole bottom to center the 5/16” bit.
This is all done referencing off the 1”
fence still set on the drill press.
Before moving the fence for the next step, use a 1” diameter bit to drill the handle
bar socket into the cleats as shown on the measured drawings. Bore these 3/4”
deep, being careful to create a left and right cleat as you do.
Mortise and Tenon Joints
Now the fence can be reset to
bore the centerline of the
mortise, and the 1” bit used to
remove most of the waste from
the mortises. The feet and the
uprights all get the same
mortise bored and cleaned up.
With all the drilling done, a
sharp chisel is used to square
up the four mortises.
For simplicity, I designed the
tenons with all four shoulder
cuts the same, 1/4” deep and
3/4” wide, so they can be cut
with one set up. I set up a 1/2”
wide Dado stack and set the
fence to 3/4” and made two
passes to form each shoulder
cut.
bore the centerline of the
mortise, and the 1” bit used to
remove most of the waste from
the mortises. The feet and the
uprights all get the same
mortise bored and cleaned up.
With all the drilling done, a
sharp chisel is used to square
up the four mortises.
For simplicity, I designed the
tenons with all four shoulder
cuts the same, 1/4” deep and
3/4” wide, so they can be cut
with one set up. I set up a 1/2”
wide Dado stack and set the
fence to 3/4” and made two
passes to form each shoulder
cut.
Dry Fit
Dry fitting it a good idea on any project, but it is especially important on this one.
We want to verify that the uprights will fit between the feet after both have been
assembled with their stretchers. If adjustments need to be made, you want to
make them before glue is added.
Clamp the uprights and
feet to the proper
stretchers with a couple
of Bessey Bar Clamps
and check the fit.
Insert two of the 3/4”
sleeves into the foot
holes, and one 1” sleeve
into the upright holes.
Slide a bolt through the
front hole in each foot
and into the front holes of
the stretchers.
Pivot the upright assembly and check that the rear holes all line up so a bolt can
pass through all the sleeves.
If the uprights are too wide to fit between the feet, the upright stretcher can be cut
down as needed. If the fit is too loose, the foot stretcher can be cut down. Once
the fit is verified, the parts can be assembled with glue.
We want to verify that the uprights will fit between the feet after both have been
assembled with their stretchers. If adjustments need to be made, you want to
make them before glue is added.
Clamp the uprights and
feet to the proper
stretchers with a couple
of Bessey Bar Clamps
and check the fit.
Insert two of the 3/4”
sleeves into the foot
holes, and one 1” sleeve
into the upright holes.
Slide a bolt through the
front hole in each foot
and into the front holes of
the stretchers.
Pivot the upright assembly and check that the rear holes all line up so a bolt can
pass through all the sleeves.
If the uprights are too wide to fit between the feet, the upright stretcher can be cut
down as needed. If the fit is too loose, the foot stretcher can be cut down. Once
the fit is verified, the parts can be assembled with glue.
The t-nuts can be tapped in place
with a hammer, but that may not
guarantee that the barrel will be
perfectly aligned with the
through-hole in the spacers.
You can ensure they align by
inserting a spacer into the hole,
passing a bolt through the
spacer, threading the t-nut on to
the bolt, then tapping the t-nut
into the upright.
Assembling the Stand
Assembling the stand follows the
same steps as the dry fit, but with
glue and screws.
Drill a pair of pilot holes through
the bottom of each mortise before
assembly to ensure that the
screws will be centered on the
tenon.
with a hammer, but that may not
guarantee that the barrel will be
perfectly aligned with the
through-hole in the spacers.
You can ensure they align by
inserting a spacer into the hole,
passing a bolt through the
spacer, threading the t-nut on to
the bolt, then tapping the t-nut
into the upright.
Assembling the Stand
Assembling the stand follows the
same steps as the dry fit, but with
glue and screws.
Drill a pair of pilot holes through
the bottom of each mortise before
assembly to ensure that the
screws will be centered on the
tenon.
The uprights and feet are
again assembled with their
stretchers, this time with glue
in the joints.
Drive a pair of washer head
screws through the pilot
holes into the tenons to
secure the sub-assemblies.
The uprights are then reconnected to the feet with the
pivot bolts and lock knobs as
before.
The cleats will be attached to the top with pocket screws. Drill three pocket screw
holes along the top edge on the inside face of both cleats.
Attaching the cleats is a bit
different since there is no
stretcher between them.
One side can be secured to
its upright, but then the
handle bar needs to be glued
and inserted between as the
other cleat is attached to the
other side.
Leave this sub-assembly to
dry before moving on.
again assembled with their
stretchers, this time with glue
in the joints.
Drive a pair of washer head
screws through the pilot
holes into the tenons to
secure the sub-assemblies.
The uprights are then reconnected to the feet with the
pivot bolts and lock knobs as
before.
The cleats will be attached to the top with pocket screws. Drill three pocket screw
holes along the top edge on the inside face of both cleats.
Attaching the cleats is a bit
different since there is no
stretcher between them.
One side can be secured to
its upright, but then the
handle bar needs to be glued
and inserted between as the
other cleat is attached to the
other side.
Leave this sub-assembly to
dry before moving on.
The final step to assembling
the stand is to add the axle
and wheels. The axle is a
1/2" diameter threaded rod,
27” long that is passed
through the holes drilled in
the rear of the feet. 6” lawn
mower wheels are available
at any hardware store.
A washer is slid onto the
axle on each side, then the
wheel, another washer, and
a nylon lock nut on each end
secures the wheels in place.
The stand is now mostly finished. We will be adding the power switch, attaching
the top and building the tool rack in part two of these plans.
Making the Top
Like any woodworking machine, we want the top of our router table to start flat
and remain flat. The best way to achieve that is to laminate it up from multiple
layers rather than trying to create the top from one thick piece.
The base layer of this top
is good quality 1/2"
plywood because it will
have to accept several
fasteners. A center layer
of 5/8” pressed board is
used as the center since it
is very flat across the
faces, and the top surface
is a 1/8” piece of masonite
with a melamine coating,
sold as a dry erase board
at my home center.
I chose these materials since they are inexpensive and can be bought locally in
quarter sheet sizes so there is little waste. The original table top was simply two
layers of 1/2" continual use. However, the exact materials used are less
important than laminating them together flat.
I could have bought a full sheet of high pressure laminate from my home center
for about $35.00, but didn’t want to have to deal with storing the three quarters of
the sheet that I didn’t need.
the stand is to add the axle
and wheels. The axle is a
1/2" diameter threaded rod,
27” long that is passed
through the holes drilled in
the rear of the feet. 6” lawn
mower wheels are available
at any hardware store.
A washer is slid onto the
axle on each side, then the
wheel, another washer, and
a nylon lock nut on each end
secures the wheels in place.
The stand is now mostly finished. We will be adding the power switch, attaching
the top and building the tool rack in part two of these plans.
Making the Top
Like any woodworking machine, we want the top of our router table to start flat
and remain flat. The best way to achieve that is to laminate it up from multiple
layers rather than trying to create the top from one thick piece.
The base layer of this top
is good quality 1/2"
plywood because it will
have to accept several
fasteners. A center layer
of 5/8” pressed board is
used as the center since it
is very flat across the
faces, and the top surface
is a 1/8” piece of masonite
with a melamine coating,
sold as a dry erase board
at my home center.
I chose these materials since they are inexpensive and can be bought locally in
quarter sheet sizes so there is little waste. The original table top was simply two
layers of 1/2" continual use. However, the exact materials used are less
important than laminating them together flat.
I could have bought a full sheet of high pressure laminate from my home center
for about $35.00, but didn’t want to have to deal with storing the three quarters of
the sheet that I didn’t need.
Cut the plywood base layer to
final size and the other two
layers about an inch oversize to
allow for simply trimming them to
the plywood after glue up. The
plan calls for a 1” thick wood
edge around the top so cut the
plywood to 28” by 18”.
I used a vacuum bag to glue up the top. There is no better way to do this
because the vacuum applies pressure evenly across the entire surface. I bought
a large vacuum bag from Roarockit. They specialize in systems for skateboards
and offer a large rectangular bag, which I bought.
I rolled standard yellow glue
onto the panel surfaces.
There are specialty glues for
veneering, but in decades of
making tops this way, I’ve
never had a problem. If you
don’t have a vacuum bag, I
recommend using contact
cement to lay up the top.
final size and the other two
layers about an inch oversize to
allow for simply trimming them to
the plywood after glue up. The
plan calls for a 1” thick wood
edge around the top so cut the
plywood to 28” by 18”.
I used a vacuum bag to glue up the top. There is no better way to do this
because the vacuum applies pressure evenly across the entire surface. I bought
a large vacuum bag from Roarockit. They specialize in systems for skateboards
and offer a large rectangular bag, which I bought.
I rolled standard yellow glue
onto the panel surfaces.
There are specialty glues for
veneering, but in decades of
making tops this way, I’ve
never had a problem. If you
don’t have a vacuum bag, I
recommend using contact
cement to lay up the top.
It will be very difficult to clamp the top using typical clamps and cauls. The glue
sets too quickly and there is no guarantee of even clamping, without which the
top can warp. Contact cement is inexpensive and easy to find, and doesn’t
require clamping at all. Again, I have built many table tops with contact cement
with no issues.
Once the glue has cured, the
upper two layers can be flushtrimmed to match the plywood
base, and a solid wood edge
glued to it. For some reason, I
automatically mitered the
corners of my edges, and that
just made for extra work. The
simple way is to glue the front
edge on first, leaving a little
more than an inch of extra on
each end. Then the sides can be glued on, butting up to the front edge, but
again, a little long in the back. The front ends are then trimmed flush with the
sides, and the sides trimmed flush with the panel back. Finally, the back edge
is glued on and trimmed flush with the sides. All in all, this process is a lot less
trouble than mitering the four sides.
sets too quickly and there is no guarantee of even clamping, without which the
top can warp. Contact cement is inexpensive and easy to find, and doesn’t
require clamping at all. Again, I have built many table tops with contact cement
with no issues.
Once the glue has cured, the
upper two layers can be flushtrimmed to match the plywood
base, and a solid wood edge
glued to it. For some reason, I
automatically mitered the
corners of my edges, and that
just made for extra work. The
simple way is to glue the front
edge on first, leaving a little
more than an inch of extra on
each end. Then the sides can be glued on, butting up to the front edge, but
again, a little long in the back. The front ends are then trimmed flush with the
sides, and the sides trimmed flush with the panel back. Finally, the back edge
is glued on and trimmed flush with the sides. All in all, this process is a lot less
trouble than mitering the four sides.
With the CRB7 Router base from
M-Power Tools set up as an offset
base, a 3/8” round over bit is used
to ease all the edges of the top,
and a couple of coats of wipe on
polyurethane are applied to protect
the wood. The top and folding
stand are now complete.
Fitting Out the Top
Some thought needs to be devoted to exactly where the miter slot and router
plate will be set.
In use, the head of the miter
gauge should be completely on
the table, so that helps set the
position of the miter slot. My
miter gauge showed that the bar
was about 3” from the edge of
the head so the slot should be
at about 3-1/2” in. The
dimensions shown in the
measured drawings are for my
gauge and the Bench Dog Dual
Track I chose to use. Verify your
set up, it may need to be slightly
different.
M-Power Tools set up as an offset
base, a 3/8” round over bit is used
to ease all the edges of the top,
and a couple of coats of wipe on
polyurethane are applied to protect
the wood. The top and folding
stand are now complete.
Fitting Out the Top
Some thought needs to be devoted to exactly where the miter slot and router
plate will be set.
In use, the head of the miter
gauge should be completely on
the table, so that helps set the
position of the miter slot. My
miter gauge showed that the bar
was about 3” from the edge of
the head so the slot should be
at about 3-1/2” in. The
dimensions shown in the
measured drawings are for my
gauge and the Bench Dog Dual
Track I chose to use. Verify your
set up, it may need to be slightly
different.
With the miter track located, the
insert plate position can be
confirmed. The plate should also be
offset from the miter slot so that the
head of the gauge does not cross
over the plate, so that sets the plate
edge back to about 8” (verify) from
the front edge of the table.
Lines were drawn centered side to
side, and at the center point of the
plate location front to back. A
template is used to mark and mill
the pocket for the router lift.
It is easiest to set this based on the center lines drawn above, so mark the center
point of each inside edge of the template.
Every manufacturer of router lifts or insert plates makes a template to fit their
products. You should follow their instructions even if the vary from these
instructions. The Rockler Router Lift FX requires a pocket the size of the
template opening with a 1/2” wide lip all the way around the lower edge. Further,
two opposing corners extend 1” into the opening and the other two extend in by
2-1/4” inches. To mark all this out, the template is double face taped into position
and a line scribed 1/2” in around the edge.
insert plate position can be
confirmed. The plate should also be
offset from the miter slot so that the
head of the gauge does not cross
over the plate, so that sets the plate
edge back to about 8” (verify) from
the front edge of the table.
Lines were drawn centered side to
side, and at the center point of the
plate location front to back. A
template is used to mark and mill
the pocket for the router lift.
It is easiest to set this based on the center lines drawn above, so mark the center
point of each inside edge of the template.
Every manufacturer of router lifts or insert plates makes a template to fit their
products. You should follow their instructions even if the vary from these
instructions. The Rockler Router Lift FX requires a pocket the size of the
template opening with a 1/2” wide lip all the way around the lower edge. Further,
two opposing corners extend 1” into the opening and the other two extend in by
2-1/4” inches. To mark all this out, the template is double face taped into position
and a line scribed 1/2” in around the edge.
The Perfect Butt scribing
tool from M-Power Tools
was used to mark this lip. It
has a spring loaded pencil
centered within a bearing.
It makes this sort of
marking easy. If you do not
happen to have this sort of
tool, a 1-1/8” diameter
router bearing with a 1/4”
bore will also hold a pencil
very close to the 1/2” offset
needed.
Remove the template and finish marking out any other items called for in the
template instructions. The opening for the router is cut out next. Drilling some
1/2” diameter holes in the corners will make cutting the opening easier. It only
takes a few minute’s work with the jig saw to create the opening required.
The template is secured back in
place and a router fitted with a
pattern bit to form the lip for the
plate. An offset base is helpful to
keep the router stable when
working on top of the narrow
template. M-Power Tool’s CRB7
base serves this purpose well.
tool from M-Power Tools
was used to mark this lip. It
has a spring loaded pencil
centered within a bearing.
It makes this sort of
marking easy. If you do not
happen to have this sort of
tool, a 1-1/8” diameter
router bearing with a 1/4”
bore will also hold a pencil
very close to the 1/2” offset
needed.
Remove the template and finish marking out any other items called for in the
template instructions. The opening for the router is cut out next. Drilling some
1/2” diameter holes in the corners will make cutting the opening easier. It only
takes a few minute’s work with the jig saw to create the opening required.
The template is secured back in
place and a router fitted with a
pattern bit to form the lip for the
plate. An offset base is helpful to
keep the router stable when
working on top of the narrow
template. M-Power Tool’s CRB7
base serves this purpose well.
While the instructions may recommend cutting the pocket to the same depth as
the plate thickness, a little extra will not hurt and allows for the leveling screws to
set the height as needed.
With the pocket cut, test the
fit of the plate. Holes will
need to be drilled for the
plate mounting screws. The
right transfer punch through
the plate holes will locate
these accurately. Remove
the plate, then drill the holes
and insert the appropriate
T-nuts.
Four more holes and T-nuts will be
needed for the leveling screws, one
in each corner. The mounting screw
T-nuts are installed from the bottom
up, but for the leveling screws insert
from the top down. This ensures that
the leveling screws and mounting
screws work in opposition without
pulling the T-nuts out.
These plans use T-nuts and the same press-on thumb screws (on shorter allen
bolts) used for the stand to mount the lift. If mounting hardware was supplied with
the lift or a leveling kit purchased, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
the plate thickness, a little extra will not hurt and allows for the leveling screws to
set the height as needed.
With the pocket cut, test the
fit of the plate. Holes will
need to be drilled for the
plate mounting screws. The
right transfer punch through
the plate holes will locate
these accurately. Remove
the plate, then drill the holes
and insert the appropriate
T-nuts.
Four more holes and T-nuts will be
needed for the leveling screws, one
in each corner. The mounting screw
T-nuts are installed from the bottom
up, but for the leveling screws insert
from the top down. This ensures that
the leveling screws and mounting
screws work in opposition without
pulling the T-nuts out.
These plans use T-nuts and the same press-on thumb screws (on shorter allen
bolts) used for the stand to mount the lift. If mounting hardware was supplied with
the lift or a leveling kit purchased, follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
The groove can now be cut to accept the miter slot extrusion. Remove the lift and
leveling screws. The extrusion must be flush with the top and show no gaps
along the extrusion. This cut must be made accurately, and mistakes can ruin all
the work put into the top. So a scrap piece will be used to set up and test the cuts
before each cut is made in the top.
With a stacked Dado set up in the
saw, the cut height is set and a
rabbet cut into the edge of the scrap
to test and correct the setting. Once
the blade height is set, the rip fence
is set to cut the outer shoulder of the
groove as determined during the
layout. This cut is made in the scrap
and the top.
Further cuts are made in the scrap,
moving the rip fence to widen the
cut. Each cut is checked then
repeated in the top. Do this until
the groove is just a little too narrow
for the miter extrusion being used.
Once the groove is close, keep
adjusting the rip fence and cut
ONLY the scrap piece until the
extrusion fits. Only when the fit is
verified in the scrap is the final cut
made in the top.
leveling screws. The extrusion must be flush with the top and show no gaps
along the extrusion. This cut must be made accurately, and mistakes can ruin all
the work put into the top. So a scrap piece will be used to set up and test the cuts
before each cut is made in the top.
With a stacked Dado set up in the
saw, the cut height is set and a
rabbet cut into the edge of the scrap
to test and correct the setting. Once
the blade height is set, the rip fence
is set to cut the outer shoulder of the
groove as determined during the
layout. This cut is made in the scrap
and the top.
Further cuts are made in the scrap,
moving the rip fence to widen the
cut. Each cut is checked then
repeated in the top. Do this until
the groove is just a little too narrow
for the miter extrusion being used.
Once the groove is close, keep
adjusting the rip fence and cut
ONLY the scrap piece until the
extrusion fits. Only when the fit is
verified in the scrap is the final cut
made in the top.
The extrusion will need to be cut to
length to fit the top. A carbide saw
blade will cut the aluminum quite
well, but a full face shield is
needed as the chips will be hot and
sharp. The extrusion could be
simply cut at one end, but to keep
the screws spaced evenly across
the length, it should be cut equally
from both ends, and a new hole
drilled and countersunk near each
end.
The groove in the top is coated with a thin layer of epoxy, and the extrusion
screwed into place. The epoxy bond will make the extrusion part of the structure,
stiffening the router table top.
The ends of the extrusion will need to
be rounded over to match the profile
of the wood edging. This can be
done quickly starting with a belt
sander and finishing with a random
orbit sander. It can also be done with
a mill file if needed.
length to fit the top. A carbide saw
blade will cut the aluminum quite
well, but a full face shield is
needed as the chips will be hot and
sharp. The extrusion could be
simply cut at one end, but to keep
the screws spaced evenly across
the length, it should be cut equally
from both ends, and a new hole
drilled and countersunk near each
end.
The groove in the top is coated with a thin layer of epoxy, and the extrusion
screwed into place. The epoxy bond will make the extrusion part of the structure,
stiffening the router table top.
The ends of the extrusion will need to
be rounded over to match the profile
of the wood edging. This can be
done quickly starting with a belt
sander and finishing with a random
orbit sander. It can also be done with
a mill file if needed.
The top is now ready to mount to
the stand. The cleats are removed
from the stand and pocket
screwed to the bottom face of the
top. Position the cleats along the
back edge and centered side to
side. This assembly is then reattached to the stand and the
router lift installed and leveled.
Building the Fence
The fence body is made from two sections of Rockler’s Multi-Track. One section
is cross cut to 32-1/2” long to form the spine, and the other is cut into two pieces,
each 14-1/4” long. These will be the fence faces. Remove any burrs on the cut
ends using a small file.
The faces are attached to the
spine using Multi-Track
brackets from Rockler. These
come in two sizes. Four of the
2-1/2” by 2-1/2” brackets and
two of the 2-1/2” by 1-1/4”
brackets. Two brackets are in
each package along with the
proper hardware for securing
them to the Multi-Track so
everything assembles easily.
the stand. The cleats are removed
from the stand and pocket
screwed to the bottom face of the
top. Position the cleats along the
back edge and centered side to
side. This assembly is then reattached to the stand and the
router lift installed and leveled.
Building the Fence
The fence body is made from two sections of Rockler’s Multi-Track. One section
is cross cut to 32-1/2” long to form the spine, and the other is cut into two pieces,
each 14-1/4” long. These will be the fence faces. Remove any burrs on the cut
ends using a small file.
The faces are attached to the
spine using Multi-Track
brackets from Rockler. These
come in two sizes. Four of the
2-1/2” by 2-1/2” brackets and
two of the 2-1/2” by 1-1/4”
brackets. Two brackets are in
each package along with the
proper hardware for securing
them to the Multi-Track so
everything assembles easily.
A washer is added to each Allen
screw, which is then put through
one of the holes in the bracket. A
flat nut is then added to the screw
on the inside of each screw. These
special flat nuts have raised bosses
to lock them into the aluminum
Multi-Track, so make sure the
bosses are facing the bracket.
The bracket is then slipped into the appropriate groove in the Multi-Track. Two of
larger brackets are set to hold each face to the spine, with one of the smaller
brackets on the lower edge of the face, located between the larger two. These
smaller brackets function as legs to help keep the fence square to the table.
Assemble the faces to the
spines but do not tighten the
screws yet. Just set them
finger tight until the fence can
be squared up. The two faces
are shorter overall than the
spine. This 4” gap is in the
center for the bit. A dust
collection port will be added
behind this gap so the two
larger brackets on the inside
need to be positioned far
enough apart to fit the dust port.
screw, which is then put through
one of the holes in the bracket. A
flat nut is then added to the screw
on the inside of each screw. These
special flat nuts have raised bosses
to lock them into the aluminum
Multi-Track, so make sure the
bosses are facing the bracket.
The bracket is then slipped into the appropriate groove in the Multi-Track. Two of
larger brackets are set to hold each face to the spine, with one of the smaller
brackets on the lower edge of the face, located between the larger two. These
smaller brackets function as legs to help keep the fence square to the table.
Assemble the faces to the
spines but do not tighten the
screws yet. Just set them
finger tight until the fence can
be squared up. The two faces
are shorter overall than the
spine. This 4” gap is in the
center for the bit. A dust
collection port will be added
behind this gap so the two
larger brackets on the inside
need to be positioned far
enough apart to fit the dust port.
To square up the fence body, a
straight edge is clamped to the
bench and the faces aligned
against it. The faces must be in
the same plane. The spine
section should be flush with the
face sections. Once the body is
squared up, all of the screws can
be locked down using the allen
wrench provided with the
brackets.
Tightening the screws will actually press the bosses on the flat screws into the
aluminum of the Multi-Track locking them in place very effectively. This fence
body will be very rigid.
straight edge is clamped to the
bench and the faces aligned
against it. The faces must be in
the same plane. The spine
section should be flush with the
face sections. Once the body is
squared up, all of the screws can
be locked down using the allen
wrench provided with the
brackets.
Tightening the screws will actually press the bosses on the flat screws into the
aluminum of the Multi-Track locking them in place very effectively. This fence
body will be very rigid.
The fence body is designed to
overhang the top by 1-1/4” on each
side. This is to accommodate the TTrack Hold Downs from Lee Valley
that are used as the fence clamps.
These allow for fast adjustment and
hold the fence securely in use
without needing slots or t-track in
the table top. These clamps need a
slight modification to fit the MultiTrack. See page 32.
The sacrificial faces for the fence can now be made. These can be 3/4” MDF or
laminated from other stock. Laminated faces will stay flat longer.
Two layers of 1/2” baltic birch
make excellent faces, but this
plan shows them being glued up
out of the leftovers from making
the top.
Two section of 5/8” thick particle
board and two of the white board
are ripped to 4” wide and cross
cut 15” long. These are then
glued together into the two
sacrificial faces. When dry, they
are jointed and ripped to 3-3/4”
wide and cross cut to 16-1/4”.
overhang the top by 1-1/4” on each
side. This is to accommodate the TTrack Hold Downs from Lee Valley
that are used as the fence clamps.
These allow for fast adjustment and
hold the fence securely in use
without needing slots or t-track in
the table top. These clamps need a
slight modification to fit the MultiTrack. See page 32.
The sacrificial faces for the fence can now be made. These can be 3/4” MDF or
laminated from other stock. Laminated faces will stay flat longer.
Two layers of 1/2” baltic birch
make excellent faces, but this
plan shows them being glued up
out of the leftovers from making
the top.
Two section of 5/8” thick particle
board and two of the white board
are ripped to 4” wide and cross
cut 15” long. These are then
glued together into the two
sacrificial faces. When dry, they
are jointed and ripped to 3-3/4”
wide and cross cut to 16-1/4”.
The sacrificial fences are
attached to the fence body with
an oval nut in the center t-slot.
(See hardware list) So holes
need to be drilled and counter
bored 2” up from the bottom
edge as shown in the measured
drawings. The counter bores
need to be just deep enough to
contain the bolt head and
washer. With the faces as
described, 1/4-20 by 3/4” allen
bolts are the correct length.
There is little extra room inside the t-slot so verify the set up is using a different
face material.
The sacrificial faces simply
slide into the fence body and
can be adjusted to provide
the opening needed for any
bit being used. The same
allen wrench that comes with
the Multi-Track bracket set is
used for adjusting the
sacrificial faces.
attached to the fence body with
an oval nut in the center t-slot.
(See hardware list) So holes
need to be drilled and counter
bored 2” up from the bottom
edge as shown in the measured
drawings. The counter bores
need to be just deep enough to
contain the bolt head and
washer. With the faces as
described, 1/4-20 by 3/4” allen
bolts are the correct length.
There is little extra room inside the t-slot so verify the set up is using a different
face material.
The sacrificial faces simply
slide into the fence body and
can be adjusted to provide
the opening needed for any
bit being used. The same
allen wrench that comes with
the Multi-Track bracket set is
used for adjusting the
sacrificial faces.
Organization
All of the common tools and pieces
used with the router table will be
neatly stored on the main stretcher.
Marking out the space on the bench
allows for visualizing the best layout
for these pieces.
The parts shown are for a PorterCable 890 Router in Rockler’s FX
lift. A different layout may be
needed for other router/lift
combinations.
Blocks are used to hold some of the tools and
provide a place to keep router bits on hand.
These will need to be made to fit the layout. In
this example, scrap stock was cut to 1-1/2” tall
and 1-1/4” wide. Some of the left over 2x8
stock would be excellent for this.
Some of this stock is for the bit blocks and is
drilled to accept Rockler’s Router Bit Storage
Inserts. These hold either 1/4 or 1/2” shank bits
so they allow for the most versatility. They
require 5/8” diameter holes drilled 3/4” deep.
This bit block stock gets a 20 degree bevel rip
along one edge to set the bits at an angle
which allows for larger diameter bits to be
stored.
All of the common tools and pieces
used with the router table will be
neatly stored on the main stretcher.
Marking out the space on the bench
allows for visualizing the best layout
for these pieces.
The parts shown are for a PorterCable 890 Router in Rockler’s FX
lift. A different layout may be
needed for other router/lift
combinations.
Blocks are used to hold some of the tools and
provide a place to keep router bits on hand.
These will need to be made to fit the layout. In
this example, scrap stock was cut to 1-1/2” tall
and 1-1/4” wide. Some of the left over 2x8
stock would be excellent for this.
Some of this stock is for the bit blocks and is
drilled to accept Rockler’s Router Bit Storage
Inserts. These hold either 1/4 or 1/2” shank bits
so they allow for the most versatility. They
require 5/8” diameter holes drilled 3/4” deep.
This bit block stock gets a 20 degree bevel rip
along one edge to set the bits at an angle
which allows for larger diameter bits to be
stored.
The center block is cut to length (6” in this layout) and the bit blocks are cross cut
to length as well. The dimensions in the measured drawings are determined by
the tools for the Porter-Cable router and lift shown. Different equipment may
require modifying the sizes and layout. Now all of these items can be mounted to
the stretcher.
The Rockler Safety Power Tool Switch was set to the left side to mirror the
common table saw switch position. In an emergency, having the switch in a
familiar location will be safer. Ensure that the switch can be easily reached and
operated without the upright interfering.
The layout shown contains all of the common items needed to use the router
table, so they are always on hand in use and if the table is taken on the road.
to length as well. The dimensions in the measured drawings are determined by
the tools for the Porter-Cable router and lift shown. Different equipment may
require modifying the sizes and layout. Now all of these items can be mounted to
the stretcher.
The Rockler Safety Power Tool Switch was set to the left side to mirror the
common table saw switch position. In an emergency, having the switch in a
familiar location will be safer. Ensure that the switch can be easily reached and
operated without the upright interfering.
The layout shown contains all of the common items needed to use the router
table, so they are always on hand in use and if the table is taken on the road.
Storage Locking
The last step is to create the lock points for holding the stand closed when
folded. This step was held until last to ensure that these holes are positioned
where they will not interfere with anything else. Remove the lock knobs and fold
both the top and legs ready for storage.
5/16” holes are bored from the outside of legs and cleats through to the inside of
the uprights. The hole locations are not critical, just be sure they are not to close
to the edge of either part. A 1/4-20 t-nut is fitted into each of these holes on the
inside face of the uprights. No spacers or sleeves are needed, these just keep
the unit from unfolding until needed.
The Woodcademy Folding Router Table is now complete and ready to use! To
fold the table, the lock knobs are removed from the cleats, the top lowered
against the uprights and the lock knobs secured in the locking locations. The legs
are folded the same way but lifted to the uprights.
The last step is to create the lock points for holding the stand closed when
folded. This step was held until last to ensure that these holes are positioned
where they will not interfere with anything else. Remove the lock knobs and fold
both the top and legs ready for storage.
5/16” holes are bored from the outside of legs and cleats through to the inside of
the uprights. The hole locations are not critical, just be sure they are not to close
to the edge of either part. A 1/4-20 t-nut is fitted into each of these holes on the
inside face of the uprights. No spacers or sleeves are needed, these just keep
the unit from unfolding until needed.
The Woodcademy Folding Router Table is now complete and ready to use! To
fold the table, the lock knobs are removed from the cleats, the top lowered
against the uprights and the lock knobs secured in the locking locations. The legs
are folded the same way but lifted to the uprights.
Fence Clamp Change
After these plans were originally created, Rockler discontinued their T-Track
Clamp that was used for the fence.
Lee Valley makes a very similar clamp that just needs a small change to fit the
Multi-Track that makes up the fence body.
The Lee Valley clamp
has a boss on the end
of the body that must be
filed off before it will fit
the Multi-Track. Just file
the boss off the
aluminum clamp body
until it fits.
This alternative requires no other change to the fence build.
After these plans were originally created, Rockler discontinued their T-Track
Clamp that was used for the fence.
Lee Valley makes a very similar clamp that just needs a small change to fit the
Multi-Track that makes up the fence body.
The Lee Valley clamp
has a boss on the end
of the body that must be
filed off before it will fit
the Multi-Track. Just file
the boss off the
aluminum clamp body
until it fits.
This alternative requires no other change to the fence build.
Because it is designed to be lightweight for ease of moving, the foot stretcher can
be used to hold the table still when in use. Placing a foot onto the stretcher
during heavy use will keep everything located and under your control.
be used to hold the table still when in use. Placing a foot onto the stretcher
during heavy use will keep everything located and under your control.
Cut List
Uprights (2) 2 x 8 x 29
Upright Stretcher (1) 2 x 8 x 18-1/2
Foot (2) 2 x 8 x 20
Foot Stretcher (1) 2 x 8 x 21-1/2
Cleat (2) 2 x 3 x 16
Handle Dowel (1) 1 Dia x 21-1/2
Top (1) 1-3/8 x 20 x 28
(Top is bonded from 1/2” Baltic birch, 5/8” particle board and 1/8" whiteboard with 1" thick
wood edging. Your glue up may be different. The layers should be cut oversize and trimmed to
final size.)
Sacrificial Faces (2) 7/8 x 3-3/4 x 16-1/4
(Sacrificial faces can be simple 3/4" MDF, or other materials laminated together such as 1/2"
Baltic birch)
Uprights (2) 2 x 8 x 29
Upright Stretcher (1) 2 x 8 x 18-1/2
Foot (2) 2 x 8 x 20
Foot Stretcher (1) 2 x 8 x 21-1/2
Cleat (2) 2 x 3 x 16
Handle Dowel (1) 1 Dia x 21-1/2
Top (1) 1-3/8 x 20 x 28
(Top is bonded from 1/2” Baltic birch, 5/8” particle board and 1/8" whiteboard with 1" thick
wood edging. Your glue up may be different. The layers should be cut oversize and trimmed to
final size.)
Sacrificial Faces (2) 7/8 x 3-3/4 x 16-1/4
(Sacrificial faces can be simple 3/4" MDF, or other materials laminated together such as 1/2"
Baltic birch)
Hardware
The hardware used in part 1 may be available at a well-stocked local hardware
store. However, just in case you can’t find it locally, I am listing the items needed
along with the stock number from McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com). If you
aren’t familiar with McMaster-Carr, you should be. They have been my go-to
source for hardware for more than 20 years.
Four press-on thumb screw caps: #94052A053
Eight 1/4-20 X 3” allen head cap screws: #91251A554
Sixteen 3/4” long plastic spacers: #94639A505
Eight 1” long plastic spacers: #94639A506
Eight 1/4-20 t-nuts with 1/2” long barrels: #90975A027
Sacrificial Fence faces and Dust Hood are attached using flat nuts.
Six 1/4-20 Oval Nuts: MicroJig P/N GRH7K
The following items are available through any hardware store or home center.
Eight 1/4” washers
One length of 1/2-13 threaded rod, 36” long
Two lawn mower replacement wheels 6” diameter, 1/2" bore
Four 1/2" washers
Two 1/2-13 nylon lock nuts
Various length 1/4-20 Allen head cap screws
The hardware used in part 1 may be available at a well-stocked local hardware
store. However, just in case you can’t find it locally, I am listing the items needed
along with the stock number from McMaster-Carr (www.mcmaster.com). If you
aren’t familiar with McMaster-Carr, you should be. They have been my go-to
source for hardware for more than 20 years.
Four press-on thumb screw caps: #94052A053
Eight 1/4-20 X 3” allen head cap screws: #91251A554
Sixteen 3/4” long plastic spacers: #94639A505
Eight 1” long plastic spacers: #94639A506
Eight 1/4-20 t-nuts with 1/2” long barrels: #90975A027
Sacrificial Fence faces and Dust Hood are attached using flat nuts.
Six 1/4-20 Oval Nuts: MicroJig P/N GRH7K
The following items are available through any hardware store or home center.
Eight 1/4” washers
One length of 1/2-13 threaded rod, 36” long
Two lawn mower replacement wheels 6” diameter, 1/2" bore
Four 1/2" washers
Two 1/2-13 nylon lock nuts
Various length 1/4-20 Allen head cap screws
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